‘Every Chef Should Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.
When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.
An Shocking Recognition
The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Rising Above the Titans
Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
The Philosophy of Heart
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Story of Perseverance
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.